The Oyster case is one of Rolex’s most important innovations, introduced in 1926 as the world’s first commercially successful waterproof wristwatch case. A major technical breakthrough, it laid the foundations of Rolex’s identity and remains at the core of the brand’s production today.
The present example belongs to the earliest generation of Rolex Oyster wristwatches and is distinguished by its uncommon faceted octagonal case. Characteristic of the late 1920s and early 1930s, the geometric design reflects the influence of the Art Deco period while retaining the technical features that made the Oyster revolutionary. Its attractive two-tone dial features Arabic numerals at 3, 9 and 12 o’clock, a subsidiary seconds register at 6 o’clock and original radium-filled cathedral hands. The contrasting sectors and period typography enhance the watch’s distinctive vintage character. The inside caseback is stamped with several British and international patent references relating to the Oyster waterproof construction, providing tangible evidence of Rolex’s pioneering research and development efforts during this formative period.
Preserved in excellent overall condition, the watch retains strong case proportions and an attractive patina to the dial. As an early Oyster model, it represents a fascinating example from the foundations of Rolex history.
Introduced in 1926, the Rolex Oyster marked one of the most important turning points in the history of wristwatches, becoming the world’s first commercially successful waterproof wristwatch case. At a time when wristwatches were still considered fragile and unreliable, Rolex revolutionized the industry through the Oyster system, featuring a hermetically sealed case construction with screw-down bezel, caseback and crown. The success of the Oyster was famously cemented in 1927, when Mercedes Gleitze crossed the English Channel wearing a Rolex Oyster around her neck, demonstrating the watch’s extraordinary resistance to water and harsh conditions.
The present Rolex Oyster Ultra Prima represents a fascinating and extremely early example of this groundbreaking period of production. Preserved in excellent overall condition, the watch features a highly unusual and rarely seen yellow gold faceted case with finely fluted bezel, strongly inspired by the geometric language of Art Deco design. Far from the utilitarian appearance commonly associated with later Oyster models, this example perfectly illustrates how early Rolex waterproof watches still retained the elegance and decorative experimentation typical of the interwar period.
The silvered dial enhances the watch’s early Oyster character, featuring bold oversized Arabic numerals, distinctive cathedral-style hands and the coveted “Ultra Prima” designation, used by Rolex during the period to identify particularly high-grade and precision-focused movements. Combining historical importance, uncommon aesthetics and remarkable presence on the wrist, the present watch stands as a superb testimony to the very beginning of the Oyster story and the birth of the modern waterproof wristwatch.
The nickname “Sommatore”, meaning “adder” or “totalizer” in Italian, was given to the model by Italian collectors due to its particularly innovative chronograph display. Unlike traditional chronographs of the era, where elapsed minutes were indicated through a small subsidiary register, the Sommatore featured centrally displayed chronograph indications, allowing elapsed timing to be read in a much clearer and more immediate way. This unusual system gave the watch a highly technical and instrumental character, making it one of the most distinctive Longines chronographs ever produced.
At the heart of the watch lies the legendary manually wound caliber 13ZN, considered by many collectors to be one of the greatest chronograph movements ever produced. Equipped with the sophisticated flyback function, developed for aviation and professional timing applications, the movement perfectly showcases Longines’ technical innovation during the golden age of chronograph production.
The present example stands out for its particularly attractive and sporty configuration. The large stainless steel case with stepped bezel and round chronograph pushers is paired with a beautiful silvered dial featuring Arabic numerals, outer minute track and elegantly proportioned subsidiary registers.
It is further accompanied by digital Extract from the Archives confirming production of the watch in 1949.
During the 1930s and 1940s, Longines established itself as one of the foremost manufacturers of wrist chronographs, producing timepieces celebrated for both their technical innovation and refined aesthetics. Among the manufacture’s most iconic creations stands the reference 4270, an exceptionally rare waterproof chronograph introduced in 1938 and immediately recognizable by its distinctive “mushroom” pushers, known among Italian collectors as “Pulsanti ad Ombrello”. Combining elegant proportions with highly advanced mechanics for the period, the model perfectly represents the golden age of Longines chronograph production.
The reference 4270 is fitted with the legendary manually wound caliber 13ZN, widely regarded as one of the greatest chronograph movements ever produced. Featuring the sophisticated flyback function, originally developed for aviation and professional timing purposes, the caliber allowed the chronograph hand to instantly reset and restart with a single push of the lower pusher. Together with its waterproof case construction and oversized proportions for the era, the reference 4270 remains today one of the most important and collectible vintage Longines chronographs.
The present example perfectly embodies the strong sporting character of the model. The large stainless steel case with stepped bezel retains the unmistakable design language of early waterproof chronographs, while the attractive black multiscale dial gives the watch an especially charismatic appearance.
Further enhancing its appeal, the watch is accompanied by its Longines Extract from the Archives confirming its production in 1938 and its delivery to Ostersetzer, Longines’ historical agent for Italy.
The Cartier Tank hardly needs an introduction. First introduced in 1917, its design language has remained remarkably unchanged for over a century, making it one of the most iconic and enduring watch designs ever created. Among the many variations developed throughout the decades, the Tank Normale represents the purest interpretation of Louis Cartier’s original vision, defined by its perfectly balanced rectangular case, parallel brancards and timeless elegance. Worn by artists, actors and cultural icons alike, the Tank established itself as a true symbol of refined style and understated luxury.
This particular example, produced in the 2020s as a limited edition of only 200 pieces, offers a refined contemporary reinterpretation of the classic Tank Normale. Crafted in platinum, the watch features a beautifully satin-finished case enhanced by Cartier’s signature red cabochon crown, traditionally reserved for platinum models. The elegant, silvered dial retains the Maison’s iconic Roman numerals, here presented in a slightly more graphic and contemporary style, paired with metallic sword hands that further emphasize the purity of the design. Powered by a manually wound movement, this Tank perfectly combines timeless proportions, understated luxury and modern refinement.