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UNIVERSAL GENEVE DUO DIAL PINK GOLD

The Duo Dial complication was highly fashionable in the mid-1930s in horology. This unique feature appeared in watches from brands like Gruen, Rolex, and notably Universal Genève. The dial was divided into two sections: the upper part displayed the classic minute and hour hands, while the lower part showed the running seconds. This design offered a unique way to view the passage of time by separating the minutes and hours from the running seconds. Many watches that had this complication were based on Universal Genève’s caliber 42. Watches featuring this complication, especially those from Universal Genève, are very rare and sought after by collectors, particularly when they are well-preserved like the present example.

The present Duo Dial watch by Universal Genève is an extraordinary example of this rare timepiece. Likely manufactured in the early 1930s, this specimen is one of the most well-preserved examples on the market, featuring an almost flawless dial and a beautiful pink gold case that shows minimal polishing, as evidenced by the deep engravings and hallmarks still present on the back case. The dial bears the “Duodial” inscription along with “Universal Watch,” the original name of Universal Genève at the beginning of the century. As expected, the dial is divided into two sectors with red accents, steel-blued hands, and black printing. Considering its nearly 100-year-old age, the overall condition is excellent. The caliber 42 is also functioning flawlessly. This is a rare and uncommon find for collectors seeking something special for their collection.

Serial Number 1,741,XXX , Year 30’s, Measuring 18x43mm

JAEGER LE COULTRE POLARIS E-859 EVERTS

The history of alarm diving wristwatches produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) began in 1959 with the renowned “Memovox Deep Sea Alarm” reference E857. This model was produced and marketed in a limited run of only 1,061 copies. In the subsequent years, driven by a relentless pursuit of innovation, JLC introduced the commercial version of a new alarm diving watch in 1965: the Memovox Polaris reference E859. The Memovox Polaris was an innovative watch featuring a large case diameter, a revamped mechanism, and a sophisticated pressurization system known as the “Piquerex Compressor System.” One of its most notable advancements was the case back with holes, designed to enhance the propagation of the alarm sound underwater, making it a significant development in the evolution of diving watches. The very first examples of reference E-859 had a distinctive feature: dauphine hands instead of the baton hands found on later second-series models. Additionally, the dial of these early examples was very peculiar, with a matte finish on the rotating center disk and a gilt finish on the outer disk. These characteristics made the first-series examples of the E-859 essentially unique within its production.

The present JLC Polaris E-859 example is exceptionally unique not only because it is a first-series model with dauphine hands and a gilt-matte dial. It is the only known double-signed example by Everts, a dealership located in the USA. This special touch of double-stamping the dial makes this JLC E-859 extraordinarily rare, significantly enhancing its collectibility. The Everts signature matches the “LeCoultre” writing on the dial, which was specific to watches destined for the US market. In contrast, models marketed in Europe featured the full “Jaeger-LeCoultre” signature. The condition of this watch is spectacular. The dial is flawless, with no signs of aging in either the matte or gilt sections, and the tritium plots and hands remain vivid with perfect writings. The case appears to be untouched, retaining its original factory finishes and details. The caliber works perfectly, as does the complicated crown system typical of this watch. All components match the production period and are correct for the watch.

Circa 1965, Diameter 42mm.

GERALD GENTA ARENA BI RETRO TITANIUM

Gérald Genta was a legendary Swiss watch designer renowned for his groundbreaking contributions to horology. Born in 1931, Genta’s innovative designs revolutionized the industry, most notably with the creation of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and the Patek Philippe Nautilus. In 1969, he launched his own eponymous label, through which he explored numerous designs, including the Arena. Named for its resemblance to an actual arena, this model has been produced in various versions, differing in materials and dial designs. The Arena was also manufactured with the Bi-Retro complication. The defining feature of this model is its combination of retrograde minutes and a jumping hour counter.

The present Gérald Genta Arena Bi-Retro is a rare specimen of this iconic model created by the renowned designer. This watch features a bi-retro complication and a titanium case, both extraordinary features for a timepiece manufactured in the early 2000s. The bi-retro complication is exceptional and rarely seen in many watches. Titanium provides superior lightness compared to other materials, giving this watch extreme wearability. The overall condition is very good, with only minimal signs of wear on the case. The caliber functions perfectly, and the dial is flawless. Additionally, the watch comes with its matching titanium bracelet.

Year early 2000’s, Serial Number 119,XXX, Diameter 46m.

CHOPARD DUAL TIME “KUTCHINSKY” REF. 2087

Kutchinsky is a renowned jewelry brand with a rich history. It was founded by Hirsch Kutchinsky, who fled Poland in 1893 and settled in London, England. The family business originally started in the East End of London before moving to Knightsbridge. In the late 20th century, the brand was acquired by other luxury jewelry companies, but the Kutchinsky name continues to be synonymous with exceptional quality and design. Over the years, Kutchinsky has designed and created numerous jewelry pieces that remain highly sought after by collectors. Kutchinsky is regarded as one of the greatest jewelry names in London throughout the 20th century. Something that not many know is that Kutchinsky also collaborated with watch brands such as Chopard. One notable result of this collaboration is the double signed Chopard Kutchinsky timepiece.

The present Chopard is a very rare and exquisite watch from the 1980s, which resulted from a col-laboration between Chopard and the London jeweler Kutchinsky. The case back is indeed double signed with the prestigious London jeweler. This watch features a very rare double time zone complication. The dial is divided into two sectors with local and home time indications. Inside the watch, two separate Chopard signed calibers operate independently to power the two different time zones on the watch dial. The overall condition is stunning, with deep gold hallmarks, a most likely untouched case, and a mint dial with no signs of aging. Additionally, the two calibers work flawlessly.

Year 1980s, Serial Number 1151XXX, measures 22×36.

ROLEX OYSTER PERPETUAL REF.1002 BREGUET NUMERALS

Breguet numerals are a distinctive style of numerals found on some dials of luxury watches. Named after Abraham Louis Breguet, a prominent watchmaker of the 18th century, these numerals were designed to be elegant, legible, and distinctive, fitting the refined aesthetics of Breguet’s timepieces. Rolex has rarely used this font type for their watch dials. However, there are very few exceptions, such as the present watch. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual reference 1002 with a Breguet numerals dial is extremely rare, with only a handful in existence. Despite speculation, there is no certainty about their origin, though many scholars suggest they were made in limited quantities for the Asian market. The appearance of one of these Breguet numerals Rolex watches is an exceptional event for any collector looking to add something incredibly rare to their collection.

The present timepiece is an incredibly rare specimen of reference 1002, featuring the Breguet numerals dial. Very few of these watches are known to exist, as they might have been manufactured for the Asian market in a very small batch for a special order. Besides their rarity, the Breguet numerals add significant elegance and finesse to the watch. Many consider Breguet numerals to be the most elegant and refined numeral script ever made. Even on a simple reference 1002, they completely transform the look of the watch, making it a true gem of elegance and taste. The watch’s collectibility is further enhanced by its fabulous, all original, and untouched condition. The dial is flawless, with very nice tritium plots that have changed to a warm yellowish tone, matching the hands. The case is likely untouched, the bracelet has no stretch, and the caliber works perfectly. All components are correct for the year of manufacture: the Breguet numerals dial is consistent with the other few known examples, the 78350/557 bracelet, the 1579 caliber, and the 1002 caseback are all correct for the period of the watch’s manufacture.

Year 1980, Serial Number 6390XXX, Diameter 34mm.