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ROLEX OYSTER EMPIRE REF. 3548 RED GOLD

Radio was used in watchmaking since the early 1900s as a light-reactive substance in the indices of dials. It was only after several decades that it was discovered to be an extremely harmful material when handled, but until about the early 1960s, when its use was discontinued, it can be found on the dials of a wide variety of watch brands. This rare Rolex Oyster Empire ref. 3548 also features the original radio on both the hour markers and hands.

This Rolex Oyster “Empire” ref. 3548 from the 1940s is undoubtedly a timepiece of great appeal to the collector of vintage watches. Not only is it exceptionally well preserved for its age, but it is also very rare, featuring a rose gold case and salmon dial. The original radio is still present on the dial and hands. The latter also left a fascinating burn mark on the dial, which is another testament to the history of this beautiful timepiece from early 1900’s. All components are correct and match the production period.

BULGARI-AUDEMARS PIGUET SERPENTI TUBOGAS REF. 8162BC

Bulgari, with its Greek origins, was founded by Sotirios Boulgaris, who settled in Italy in 1884, establishing it as a jewelry house. Serpenti designs originated in the 1940s, crafted by Sotirios Boulgaris himself. Employing the Tubogas technique, reminiscent of ancient Roman jewelry, the designs embraced the wearer’s wrist or neck. The inaugural Serpenti watch emerged in the late 1940s, flaunting a coiled snake design and symbolizing elegance. Collaborating with esteemed manufacturers like Jaeger-LeCoultre, Vacheron Constantin, and Audemars Piguet, Bulgari integrated high-quality movements. Over time, Bulgari refined the Serpenti watch collection, introducing novel designs, materials, and technical advancements, including the iconic Tubogas bracelet in the 1960s. The vintage Bulgari Serpenti watches are highly coveted and considered rare collectibles. These timepieces are regarded as true works of art.

The present Bulgari timepiece is a remarkable example from the 20th century, belonging to the Serpenti Tubogas collection. Its exceptional rarity sets it apart, as the Serpenti Tubogas watches were meticulously handcrafted and produced in limited quantities. Adding to its uniqueness, this particular watch features a double signature on the dial. Both the Bulgari and Audemars Piguet signatures are present because the movement inside this exquisite piece is an Audemars Piguet handwound calibre, operated by a crown on the right side of the rectangular case. Further enhancing its desirability, the case is adorned with precious diamonds on the bezel. Crafted from white gold, the case perfectly complements the exquisitely crafted Tubogas bracelet. This Bulgari Serpenti watch is in impeccable condition, with a tight Tubogas bracelet, flawless dial, well preserved case, and a perfectly functioning movement.

The watch is accompanied by its original box signed Bulgari Roma and Audemars Piguet Extract from the Archives.

Serial Number 383,XXX, Watch manufactured in 1967

JAEGER LE COULTRE ART DECO’ LADY WATCH ASYMETRIQUE

Art Deco watches, emerging in the 1920s and 1930s, are celebrated for their bold, geometric designs and luxurious materials. Characterized by symmetrical lines, intricate patterns, and vibrant colors, these timepieces reflect the opulence and modernism of the Art Deco movement. Watchmakers like Cartier, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Patek Philippe led the way in creating exquisite examples, often incorporating elements such as mother-of-pearl, onyx, and precious gemstones. Art Deco watches remain highly sought after by collectors and enthusiasts, representing a timeless blend of artistry and functionality. Their enduring appeal lies in their unique ability to capture the elegance and innovation of an era defined by rapid technological and social change.
The present Jaeger-LeCoultre Lady wristwatch is a stunning piece from the golden Art Deco era. The 14kt yellow gold case features a very unusual design with an asymmetrical shape. The lugs are different on each side of the watch, creating a fantastic visual effect. Another interesting feature of this wristwatch is the gilt black lacquered dial, signed “LeCoultre,” with geometric gold indexes. Very few watches of this type have surfaced on the market over the years, making this watch extremely sought after by Art Deco wristwatch collectors. The desirability of this watch is further enhanced by its overall quality, featuring a beautifully flawless black gilt dial and a perfectly preserved, likely untouched case. A similar example with a Cartier-signed dial was published in “White Cartier Bianco”, further testifying to the rarity of this model being featured in such an important book.

UNIVERSAL GENEVE DUO DIAL PINK GOLD

The Duo Dial complication was highly fashionable in the mid-1930s in horology. This unique feature appeared in watches from brands like Gruen, Rolex, and notably Universal Genève. The dial was divided into two sections: the upper part displayed the classic minute and hour hands, while the lower part showed the running seconds. This design offered a unique way to view the passage of time by separating the minutes and hours from the running seconds. Many watches that had this complication were based on Universal Genève’s caliber 42. Watches featuring this complication, especially those from Universal Genève, are very rare and sought after by collectors, particularly when they are well-preserved like the present example.

The present Duo Dial watch by Universal Genève is an extraordinary example of this rare timepiece. Likely manufactured in the early 1930s, this specimen is one of the most well-preserved examples on the market, featuring an almost flawless dial and a beautiful pink gold case that shows minimal polishing, as evidenced by the deep engravings and hallmarks still present on the back case. The dial bears the “Duodial” inscription along with “Universal Watch,” the original name of Universal Genève at the beginning of the century. As expected, the dial is divided into two sectors with red accents, steel-blued hands, and black printing. Considering its nearly 100-year-old age, the overall condition is excellent. The caliber 42 is also functioning flawlessly. This is a rare and uncommon find for collectors seeking something special for their collection.

JAEGER LE COULTRE POLARIS E-859 EVERTS

The history of alarm diving wristwatches produced by Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) began in 1959 with the renowned “Memovox Deep Sea Alarm” reference E857. This model was produced and marketed in a limited run of only 1,061 copies. In the subsequent years, driven by a relentless pursuit of innovation, JLC introduced the commercial version of a new alarm diving watch in 1965: the Memovox Polaris reference E859. The Memovox Polaris was an innovative watch featuring a large case diameter, a revamped mechanism, and a sophisticated pressurization system known as the “Piquerex Compressor System.” One of its most notable advancements was the case back with holes, designed to enhance the propagation of the alarm sound underwater, making it a significant development in the evolution of diving watches. The very first examples of reference E-859 had a distinctive feature: dauphine hands instead of the baton hands found on later second-series models. Additionally, the dial of these early examples was very peculiar, with a matte finish on the rotating center disk and a gilt finish on the outer disk. These characteristics made the first-series examples of the E-859 essentially unique within its production.

The present JLC Polaris E-859 example is exceptionally unique not only because it is a first-series model with dauphine hands and a gilt-matte dial. It is the only known double-signed example by Everts, a dealership located in the USA. This special touch of double-stamping the dial makes this JLC E-859 extraordinarily rare, significantly enhancing its collectibility. The Everts signature matches the “LeCoultre” writing on the dial, which was specific to watches destined for the US market. In contrast, models marketed in Europe featured the full “Jaeger-LeCoultre” signature. The condition of this watch is spectacular. The dial is flawless, with no signs of aging in either the matte or gilt sections, and the tritium plots and hands remain vivid with perfect writings. The case appears to be untouched, retaining its original factory finishes and details. The caliber works perfectly, as does the complicated crown system typical of this watch. All components match the production period and are correct for the watch.